"Frequently
asked Questions""Frequently
asked Questions"
why me???
who
did it??
Yes several of our domes should work well.
G.D.1 conector kit is same price as G.D.2 connector
kit.
Prices are based on number of connectors and
size, mfg. time and hardware qty. Star Domes have less hubs but more mfg
time per hub and more hardware.
Priced lower-higher:
Octa-Dome
Octa-Gazebo-Dome
Garden Dome1
GardenDome 2 w/ Base Option
Garden Dome 3
Star Dome 1A, B or 2A, B (1A or 1B2, or 2A or
2B best for more light transmission)
2 x 2 S.D.1A = $365 (conn. kit)
2 x 2 S.D.B2 = $295
2 x 2 SD2A or B, = $350
Use 2 x 2, 2 x 3 or 2 x 4. With a table saw you
can cut 2 x 4s or 2 x 6s lengthwise to get the 2 x 2 or 2 x 3.
Except for the Octa-Domes that have less structure,
2 x 2 should be sufficient and will let more light in.
Use woven poly on the outside, possibly secured
best with a wood lath nailed over it. Because of possibility of being buried
in snow it must be attached well = tight. And less expensive clearer non
woven film on the inside for insulation. Best would be the polycarb. You
would purchase locally and install it yourself. Also hort. Coroplast, www.coroplast.com
These are approx. 12 ft dia:
Icosa-Dome
Garden
Dome 2 + Base Option
Garden
Dome 3 + Base Option
Star Dome
2-B
Star Dome 2-B
Yours Truly
I am interested in your octa-dome for a garden tool shed. I have the12 ft. hub to hub exterior; can be more or less if you need it to fit in an exact space.
following questions:
What will the diameter at the floor be for a 12' diameter dome?
What is the base option? (I'm guessing it's a short wall)?There is a mid level hemisphere on the domes shown. The parts below the middle are optional = base option. For instance if you built up a brick or cement wall or put posts in the ground to lift it up, that will work well too. Really depends on height you need, but it is a good way to add height. Notice there is an inward pointing Base Option, and one that comes straight down shown on the Octa-Gazebo-Dome page. I Like the second one better as you get more floor area.
What has been the reaction of the local buildingI think people ignore them, because their neighbors have giant RVs, big barns, satellite dishes etc. Anyway better safe than sorry. and if you have a neighborhood comittee I'd check with them. You can apply for an exception = "variance." We had one instance where the underlings would not give a permit, until the owners went to the Commissioner. When they found out he was a Nasa engineer and retired Air Force officer there was no longer any problem. Another case the neighborhood comitee did not want a dome in someones back yard, but on appeal the time limit to take action expired, so they got their dome.
inspectors been to dome out-buildings?
If I wanted to cover the entire dome with rigidFor a 12 ft. Octa-Dome + Base Option, about 12 4 x 8 sheets of whatever you use. Recomend Hardie panel [jameshardie.com] GAF and Gardner roofing products. I think a roof top with osb + felt + composite shingles, with an over hang for rain drip, and sides of Hardie panels or any siding, and small windows about $20 each would work very nice. Also you can pour a basic cement floor, (or make a deck/floor) and run an underground wire for a light/fan etc. The Base Option height is adjustable which make it nice to customize for your particular requirements.
panels, what would the cost be?
(Ref: 10 ft. G.D. 2)You can have (regular "wolmanized")
pressure treated lumber for addt'l 15%
Galvanized hardware would be addt'l
$45 (more permanently rustproof) Zinc plated is standard. Regular white/yellow
pine with oil based sealer is standard included. "Nude"; w/o this (use
paint or do-it-yourself) subtract $45 from your cost.
You would probably prefer the 2 x 2 (lower
shipping cost) or 2 x 4 wood dome frame. Redwood or other wood type is
an option but costs more and I do not have prices currently.
You may have 6 mil greenhouse plastic (non-woven)
alone (least expensive option), or with the polygonal hub covers (plexiglass,
any color) and hardware. It is clearer although blurry visibility.
Or, 10 or 12 mil woven "super poly" that is most durable, alone (by sq.
footage) or in the Super Poly Kit with window channel, cinchstrap, hub
covers, hdw., instructions
For best insulation, use 2 layers one inside
and one outside of the wood strut. For instance the woven poly on outside
and clearer 6 mil film on inside.
You would need a ratchet and 1/2" socket, and
hot glue gun and good staple gun to appply the films.A method to anchor
the dome down using bottom hubs and struts to ground/foundation.
Also removeable foam board insulation for the
several north facing triangles (not if you use 2 layers of film), a heater
and
passive solar collectors to add heat, and grow
lights if you need them. Maybe small fan for circulation. A few hours work
putting up the dome (depending on ability) and 8-15 hrs for covering.
What you get:
Dome Frame- lumber, pvc cylinder connectors,
hardware, door hub w/ struts and hdw. with handle, latch and hinges, step
by step instructions with illustrations, paper dome model, guarantee satisfaction,
liberal return policy, free email support.
Cover- Woven (10 or 15 mil) Super
Poly or non woven (6 mil) plastic film by sq. ft. Or, in kit form precut
in large manageable sections, with everything (incl. polyfasterner w/ instal-remove
tools and cinchstrap lath) except hot glue and staples.
Another option for the metal domes is round steel
tubing, galvanized
electrical conduit in standard sizes. This method
is a a good inexpensive
alternative. Hub cylinders would be used for
connecting [not always applicable], which are metal
or pvc. Again the design depends on the purpose.
A reinforced round steel tube dome would be a
"double dome". This would
be a strut tube on the interior a n d exterior
of each connecting area on
the hub. For instance you have a 4 inch long
cylinder, and a 1" tube
attached on the inside and outside ends. Tube
ends are flattened, bent
and drilled. This is a common practice for constructing
domes, however
the hub cylinders are a unique system. The schedule
80 pvc with 3/8" wall
thickness would be strong enough for many purposes,
and cost much less to
manufacture. So you could get down to the $2
- 3,000 range.
Refer to Steel
Domes.
Yes I love them too, and you won't find them any
where else! In fact the sizes
could range from about 3 ft diameter to 60 feet;
which would have 11.5 foot
long struts for the star arms.I just did a basic
cost proposal for one, with
Super Poly cover installed, cement perimeter
wall foundation, and brick paver
walkways that can be changed as needed. 2 x 4
pressure treated wood, the
thicker (schedule 80) pvc connectors, came out
to be est. $19,500.
> I have a half-acre sloping lot in a lush
> jungle valley in Hawaii (behind Waikiki with an ocean view) which
already
> has a 5-level tree house in a gigantic banyan tree ("The Biosphere
Tree")
> which is the southeast aspect of the GAIASPHERE DOME, a living dome
of huge
> timber bamboos, alive and used structurally......
As I am pretty familiar with dome connections
(http://www.gardendome.com/Patents.htm)
I know that any strut material can
be designed and adapted succesfully with a variety
of connecting methods.With
round tubes (bamboo, pvc) I would machine them
at the proper angle, with a
round cut to fit cylinder hubs. Same for the
rectangle and square metal tubes.
Then everything is bolted together, welded if
necessary.
>Bucky made a big bamoo dome in an outdoor theatre in Ubud, Bali, which I would love to have seen...
There are several good shadecloth canopy materials,
different weave thickness
of black and silver, and varieties (color patterns)
of high tech awning
fabrics
They
are known for superior structural strength with no interior walls or columns
needed for supporting the
roof;
and for enclosing the greatest volume with the least materials = less suface
area for more living area
inside.
I AM JUST STARTING
A BUSINESS OF BREEDING PARROTS, AND I'M LOOKING FOR A NEAR
PERFECT
ENVIRONMENT
IN WHICH TO RAISE THEM.
Then
some areas inside the dome would need to be seasonally enclosed for extra
heating, unless the whole
dome
is heated.
I PREFER
THAT THE STRUCTURE IS ENVIRONMENTALLY CORRECT, AS I AM A PARROT
CONSERVATIONALIST,
AND I WANT TO STAY TRUE TO MYSELF.
Domes
and dome people are known for alternative living and doing more with less.
Originally domes were a
big
success because for a dome home 30% less materials can enclose the same
area as a 'square' home, and
the
less surface area and shape gives better ability to heat and cool efficiently.
CAN YOU GIVE ME ANY IDEAS; AND PLEASE TRY TO GIVE ME A GENERAL IDEA OF HOW MUCH A 50' DOME WOULD COST
>From
$15k delivered and installed with the cover up to ? $60k+ with electrical,
plumbing, proper foundation,
heat/AC,
fans, ventilation, solar power; dealing with engineering, architect, government,
contractors etc. A lot
of
the cost depends on your basic dome type and materials, wood or metal,
and cover type.
About
$65k for an aluminum dome "Garden Dome 6" type (196 hubs, 555 struts)
[http://www.gtwn.net/~wgd/Gd6.html],
2 x 2 inch square struts, round aluminum connector hubs. Installed;
with
underground concrete anchor piers, and glass and/or polycarbonate glazing.
A metal sheet hub cover
plate
may be required for reinforcing the hub connections; recommended for better
tornado resistance.
Wood domes naturally cost less.
THAT WOULD BE
A YEAR AROUND SHELTER FOR MY PARROTS . WE HAVE ALOT OF EXTREME WEATHER
THAT IS VARIBLE-
HIGH WINDS, HAIL STORMS, BITTER COLD, UNBELIEVABLE HUMID, HOT
SUMMERS,
TORNADOES AT
TIMES. IF THE GLASS WAS RIGHT, COULD A PERSON USE RECYCLED
PANE GLASS FOR THE
TRIANGLES.
Probably,
as lots of glass is recycled. Special solar control glass. Consult a glass
expert. Glass with wire
screen
for safety may be required for overhead. Glass on lower areas and the polycarb.
glazing like SPS brand
on
the upper areas might be best. It insulates better than glass too. http://www.spscorp.com/thermaglas.html
I WOULD LIKE
TO SOMEHOW BE ABLE TO ARRANGE 10-15, 10' FLIGHTS (MAYBE SPOKE STYLE)
THAT ALL
FACE TOWARDS
THE CENTER IN WHICH I HOPE TO HAVE A WATERFALL AND POOL WITH EXOCTIC PLANTS.
DO YOU KIND
OF GET THE IDEA? INBETWEEN THE "SPOKES". I WOULD PLANT TREES,
SHRUB, ANF
FLOWERS.
I WOULD WANT MISTING AND A WAY TO CREATE A "RAINFOFOREST CANOPY" AT THE
TOP,
WITH HUGE HANGING
PLANTS OR VINES. THERE WOULD BE SOME FREE-FLYING PARROTS. AND
MAYBE
SOME TIME IN
THE FUTURE, A SMALL CONNECTED BUILDING COULD BE INCORPORATED FOR NURSERY,
FOOD
PREPARATION,
AND A OFFICE AREA.? AM I JUST DREAMING, OR COULD THIS BE DONE?
It's
a great idea!Another thing about domes are their aerodynamic shape - ability
to resist tornadoes and
hurricanes
much better.
I REALLY LIKE
THE WHOLE CONCEPT AND I THINK IT WOULD BE GREAT FOR MY BUSINESS AS WE SEEM
TO
BE IN A ENVIROMENTAL
TREND, ESPECIALLY WITH A NEW CENTURY COMING. AS FAR AS THIS GOES,
THIS
COULD BE A GREAT
ADVERTISEMENT FOR YOU. NEBRASKA IS ALITTLE BEHIND TIMES, BUT
THEY LOVE THE
LAND.
I DO THINK IT WOULD BE GRADUAL, BUT I ESPECIALLY THINK YOUR
BACKYARD DOMES WOULD
SELL GOOD HERE.
ESPECIALLY IF THEY COULD SEE ONE IN PRODUCTION. ALSO, HOW TALL WOULD
A 50-60'
DOME BE?
AND IS THE GROUND AREA THE SAME AS THE DIAMETER? I TOLD YOU I WAS
A DUMMY. ANY
ADVICE WILL
BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. VICKI
A domes
height is at or near the radius (= 1/2 the diameter) so then a 60 ft dome
is 30 ft tall at the top (apex).
But
floor area and space volume multiplies rapidly with increase of diameter.The
Garden Dome 3 chart shows
this
concept. http://www.fastlane.net/~ega/gd3_tables.htm
With
a 30 ft tall dome a second level floor - look out deck/platform can be
used.
-----Original Message-----
Hello,
Depending on the dome size you need several of the dome types might work
for you. Each
has it's own characteristics and limitations.
Considering the Octa-Dome, max size would be in the 25 feet range. You
would have large
triangles, and you would likely adjust the dome size to fit the cover material
for best economy
of usage. For instance 10 ft length of poly film or mesh, screen etc. You
are cutting triangles
from rectangle cover material so this is a consideration.
The Octa-Dome has possibility for an "-X1" division type. This adds some
extra struts for
reinforcement and extra attach points for covering; would be ideal for
the large triangles of the
25 foot range.
Garden Dome 2 also in the max -25 foot range, but has more hubs and struts,
more (and
smaller) triangles that may be divided (X1,2,3) in various ways.
Garden Dome 3 could be up to 40 feet and I would recommend at least the
-X1 struts
added for this size. I have steel hubs for the lower ones on this size,
but aluminum or the
heavier duty schedule 80 pvc will work; used on at least the lower ground
level.
Garden Dome 4 could be up to 50 feet.
The aluminum hubs will work best for larger domes. Aluminum and pvc can
be used
together, for instance aluminum (stronger) for the lower several hubs and
sch. 80 pvc for
upper hubs (holds up less weight).
Aluminum and steel hubs cost more, in the $15 to $35 each range depending
on type. Steel
hubs will have anti-corrosion finish.
You can also mix struts sizes. For wood struts, on a large dome 2 x 6 on
the lower levels
and 2 x 4 on the upper. Also 2 x 6 with 2 x 4 "X" struts, or 2 x 4 with
2 x 3 or 2 x 2 "X"
struts etc. etc.
You would likely need special approval for building commitee/code people
for erecting a
dome (or any building) for commercial use. We can supply engineering format
type drawings
to help this process, $50 to $150 depending on dome type and what's needed.
States have
individual engineering requirements, so it would be left up to you to find
out if you need any
engineer review/inspection and locating one.
Domes can rest right on level ground or be built up on a cement wall, brick
(cinder block)
wall, etc. Underground cement posts can attach to lower dome hubs and/or
struts to anchor
the dome.
For lowest expense, a 2 x 4 dome 30 -40 feet, covered with super poly will
work well. Use
the sch. 80 pvc and more permanently rust proof galvanized hardware (costs
a litle more).
Use the Poly fastener for more window openings, or triangle hub+strut hinged
window
frames. that can be opened and closed more easily. Alternative is poly
carbonate glazing for
the whole dome or just windows that can be hinged. Another is Coroplast
horticulture grade.
www.coroplast.com
The basic GD3 has less height for floor area, as it is less than a half
sphere dome.
Any of the domes can be made from standard aluminum extrusion square
tube, 1 x 1 to 2 x
2 inch size; with the pvc or aluminum hubs. Another standard aluminum channel
added can
lock on glass or rigid glazing using spring tension clips.
So you have lots of options and price range.
Consider the Star Domes also. The Star Dome 2 is more than half sphere;
height is more
than the dome radius.
This 20 ft. 2 x 4 one (jpg) is in Colorado springs.
Also we will be starting an automatic interest free monthly payment option
if this will help in
your purchase.
Thanks,
Ernie Aiken
attachments: Star Dome 2C, Octa-Dome X1 photo and top view drawing.
----------------------------------------------------------------
New dome designs based on our exclusive construction connection system.
Patents pending with the U.S. Office of Patent & Trademarks.
Worldflower Garden Domes, Inc.
PO BOX 2103
Georgetown, Tx. 78627
Toll Free 1-877-999-DOME
email gardendome@yahoo.com
http://www.gardendome.com
-----------------------------
vicki wrote:
HOW BIG IS POSSIBLE FOR THE OCTA-DOME, OR GARDEN DOME 4 ? I WOULD
LIKE TO BE
ABLE TO HOUSE SEVERAL PAIRS OF PARROTS IN NATIVE VEGETATION, A WATERFALL
AND
STREAM, AND GROW AND SELL EXOCTIC PLANTS AND TREES. IS SOMETHING
LIKE THIS
POSSIBLE? I LIVE IN NEBRASKA. WITH CRAZY WEATHER. PLEASE ADVISE.
I AM VERY
INTERESTED. VICKI
60 ft. Star Dome 1, "MMX" minus 60 Star dividing
struts, the 1-A and 1-B types combined,
2 x 4 pressure treated wood, with oil based wood
preservative (may be clear, white or a light gray) and galvanized steel
attaching hardware.
Schedule 80 pvc connectors.
The "star arms" are the longest struts, these
will be approx. 11 ft. 6 inches
Dome- material + mfg. labor
$4,450
Delivery -truck one way
1,300
Foundation, local sub, concrete
perimeter wall,
+ paver walks
4,800
Installation, 4 + weeks on site*
6,700
Equip rental
1,200
Super Poly cover Kit installed
1,400
Total =
$19,850
*Local laborers hired as required to expedite.
Option 1. - 2 x 6 wood used on the stars,
which are the main supporting structure. Double hardware and connector
cylinder
length for added strength for this large size.
Star pentagon struts are approx 8 ft, Star arms, 11-1/2 ft., Star Center
struts, 6-1/2
ft. Additional cost = $1,275 All other struts
remain 2 x 4
Option 2. All hubs aluminum cylinders. For the
all 2 x 4 dome, additional $700. For the 2 x 6 + 2 x 4 dome, additional
$1,200
( = $22,325) .
Option 3. Same dome but 50 ft. diameter. Basic total = $17,650
I have an educational institute discount, should your school be interested in a dome, 10%.
With 87 of the 21 foot tubes, the 40 ft. dome
(GD4) can be made. In fact for less waste of materials = using more of
the
available tube length, a 43 ft. diameter dome
can be made, at no extra cost.
The strut lengths and quantities are:
43 FT. GD4
Price $18,400 + tax = $19,918
Includes installation, anchor posts, cover plates
and features discussed previously. After delivery, installation will take
2-3
weeks. Contract will need to be amendable, in
the possible but unlikely event of price increase over the amount quoted.
= = = = = = =
David wrote:
Ernie,
Sorry for the late reply. I now own an original copy of domebook
2 and
having a great time reading it. Tons of info! Believe it or
not, I just
purchased a domebook 1 and should have it in about 10 days!
I got domebook 1 and shelter for $10 each from a junk dealer
in vegas.
What a stroke of luck! My dish biz is taking off and I plan
to order a
15ft gardendome 2 framekit with 2x2 struts real soon; (need
a price
quote) with shipping to 7xxx6 zip.
Great these old books are amazing. I've seen them
at the library. My main original reference is the John Prenis Dome Builders
Handbook.
Working on a 12 ft. 3 fr. dome (garden
dome 3) I decided to develop it's potential as a Gazebo type with long
vertical riser to
lift it up, or as a roof cap to a cement, brick
or other basic wall with 10 sides. With this type a standard store bought
door can
be framed in easily in the riser walls. Can even
be triangled like the bottom of the Octa-Gazebo-Dome.
.......
= = = = = = = = = = = =
I have special features for quick disconnecting
hubs and struts. I've probably mentioned this already. There's 2 basic
types
that speed things up greatly and really good
for repeated assembly/ take town. Parts and shop work takes more time so
this
option is $30 to $100+ depending on qty. of hubs
and hdw. (special order). They are different attaching hdw.. Other basic
options are the thicker schedule 80 stronger pvc, for 3 and 4
inch dia. hubs (not for 1 x 2 wood) which costs
more, galvanized vs. zinc plated hdw., treated wood (add 10%), metal hubs
and struts, other wood like redwood or cedar,
conduit metal tube domes. These round metal tube domes I am making
prototypes, work fine and will be bolted to the
pvc or metal hubs. So you can see with all these items you almost have
to sit
down with someone and explain everything. (maybe
it is too much). Then you have different types of coverings, shadecloths,
greenhouse films... And hub covers...
Shipping - lots of things can be shipped
UPS, others motor freight or come here, rent a truck and take it home with
you.
Ernie
Here are some Garden Dome 2 prices:
Connector Kit+ for 2 x 4 wood.............. $217.00
Base Option C.K. for 2 x 4.......................
72.00
Option sch. 80 (gray) pvc, thicker
and stronger.....
Main Dome and Base Option.....add...........45.00
Super Poly Kit*...Main Dome and
Base Option ....(shipped seperately)..........444.00
Clear non woven standard greenhouse
film**...(shipped seperately).......................55.00
TOTAL = $833
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
We need a delivery zip code for the shipping
rate.
You may pay with 50% down payment and the remainder
due at delivery time, in which case we will notify you of the delivery
date and amount.
We use a web based secure (SSL) e- commerce for
credit card transactions, you will get an immediate email receipt. Phone
to
give your credit card information toll free,
1-877-999-DOME. You may also pay by check or money order.
Mailing address:
W.G.D.
PO BOX 2103
Georgetown, Tx. 78627
= = = = = = = = = = = = = =
+ Includes parts and instructions for a hinged
hub and strut triangle door which may be used or other doors (and windows)
may
be adapted to the dome frame.
*Poly in large precut sections, polyfastener,
cinchstrap, interior (pvc sheet) and exterior (plexiglass) hub cover plates
with
attaching hardware. Super poly only not precut,
by sq. ft (10 ft wide) to cover your dome - $135 plus shipping. You
may nail
on wood lath to the dome struts (in addition
to or instead of cinchstrap) over the super poly as a securing reinforcement,
insuance against any pulling off from snow weight.
subtract $35 for no cinchstrap (white pvc strip).
**6 mil in 14 ft by X length, not in precut sections,
enough to cover the complete dome interior.
============
More options:
Galvanized steel hardware, more rustproof than
the zinc plated, add $40.
Coroplast - see http://www.coroplast.com for
more information. Horticultural grade, price approx. $18 per 4' x
8'sheet. You
would need several sheets, maybe 20 (an educated
guess without calculating) to cover the whole dome. Can be used in
combination with super poly (on different triangles).
Can be used as a hinged window; the material istelf has super hingeability;
just nail it to a strut and make a hinge-bend.
It has some good insulating propreties. You would get it direct from the
factory or
from a plastic supplier, shipped to your location.
It is easy to cut and install. There are also other brand names. It would
cost a
few hundred dollars to ship precut triangles
to Alaska from Texas- cost prohibitive.
Polycarbonate- twin walled with internal ribs,
costly but clearer (lets in more light), more durable, tougher, better
insulating.
Several brand names. Cut with a table saw. Could
be used in the several top triangles where more insulation is needed as
heat
rises and escapes. Price range beginning at $65
pre 4' x 8' sheet.
Polyfastener - $.65 per foot, can be used over
several triangles for removing large triangle sections of poly film for
better
ventilation. You might want for the film attached
to the inside for easier removing. Put on two struts and roll up the film
and
attach it to the 3rd strut with a cable tie (instructions
show you how to do this) for an easy window. Enough for 2 windows is
supplied with the Super Poly Kit.
Black/Silver woven poly - by square foot - you
can make a pond liner, might be good to line a hydroponic tank - many
uses. Use the black for its solar heat collecting
ability. It is opaque, 12 or 18 mil thickness, black on one side and silver
on the
other. We sell this, give sq. ft. for a price
quote.
Also in silver/white and white/white. Silver
can be used as a reflector = light collector.
Insulating foam board- the silver backed type,
use in dome triangles as press to fit insulators on the windy side where
most
heat is lost. Silver faced inside will add reflected
light and supplement any grow lights. Buy at builders supply. Other types-
you
can insulate the ground under the dome floor
and make it a passive solar collector. Dig down one or two feet and cover
the
area under the dome with one or two layers of
4 x 8 foam board sheets. A solar expert recommended this to me. Punch a
few
holes for water flow. You can still use it for
growing plants with shallow root systems. Some electric heating cables
will keep the
soil warm for plants. Greenhouse suppliers
have these.
=====end=======
1.There are some old books you might find at
libraries. There is tons of information on the www.
2.You can use pressure treated wood,
but it has some chemicals for anti mildew etc. that may be toxic to birds.
Untreated
you may treat yourself
with a recipe from Organic Gardening. If you will have high humidity like
a tropical garden with
misters etc. aluminum
would be best. Wood with rubberized paint will work well also. It is elastomeric
roof coating paint.
I put it on a dome 3
years ago and it has held up very well. It is the "white coat" but color
can be added. It is brushed on
and a coat of exterior
grade latex paint that also has anti-mildew ability is sprayed on; so you
have 2 waterproofing coats.
Julie is trying it in
the Big Thicket, near Beaumont and low humid swampy areas to see how it
will perform there. After
several years if any
struts show deterioration, these can be replaced with new ones.
3.With an oil based wood preservative,
as in Behr and Thompson's brands, a new coat every year or two as needed.
With
the elastomeric coat,
touch up any areas that get scratched or scraped and exposes the wood.
Check up on the hub
connections as wood
contracts/expands these may need tightened once or twice. This could be
prevented with use of
construction super nailing
glue on the attaching hardware at initial assembly.
4.There are different shade cloths
and different methods of use. I like the silver or black from Green-Tek
different weave
density for 30-60% shade.
(Edgerton, WI 608-884-9494 fax 608-884-9459) Large sections can cover several
dome
triangles and attach
with grommets to hubs and struts too if necessary. Large rectangle sections
can be hung inside the
dome vertically as shade
curtains, or at angles attached to hubs.
5.A good mister system will reduce
heat substantially. With shade and ventilation, actual air conditioning
can be kept to a
minimum. A seperate
closed air conditioned area for work or office would be ideal. To keep
costs reasonable the whole
dome inside does not
need to be air conditioned, except for fans for ventilation, shade, misters
and perhaps an additional
water evaportive cooler.
6.There is lots of heating information
from the Garden Web structures forum (www.gardenweb.com). You would want
to
use passive solar collectors,
and supplement with a gas fired unit(s) with thermostat control when temperatures
merit.
7.Photo voltaic systems that generate
electricity is different than passive collectors. Passive collectors would
be water,
rocks, bricks, or the
earth itself. Dark rocks or black barrels etc. I discuss on my Solar Power
Your Dome page.
8.Sure you can add supplemental
electric solar generator panels any time. You would get a meter
that reads what is not
used and the electric
company must buy back your unused portion. Same for windmill generators.
9.We would be happy to deliver your
dome and set it up. We are not a big company and have low overhead. Local
contractors would be
hired only as needed, for foundation, electrical, etc. But lots of this
you can do yourself, after the
dome is up. You would
want to preplan for your door openings, foundation and plumbing, where
your AC unit will be,
basic electrical plan.
You could hire a general contractor, do it yourself or ew can do it.
10.Will discuss this later. Basically,
a commision as a "rep" or retail/wholesale agrement with a contract. You
take orders
and we fulfill them.
11.You can have a good professional cement
wall for the perimeter of the dome = ground level, as tall or short as
needed;
or just enough to raise
it off the ground. Probably several concrete anchor posts underground.
A single layer of "cinder"
blocks mortered and
filled with concrete would be sufficient. You can plan for poured side
walks or brick walkways that
can be moved around-
more flexibility. An areas for trees etc. will need to stay unpaved.
12.Difficult to answer. The woven poly
film is not by itself very insulating, neither is glass. You can add a
layer of the clearer
non woven film to the
dome struts inside, supplementing the woven poly on the exterior, for an
insulating dead air space.
This will reduce light
slightly more. Both materials will last for several years, and would be
time consuming and a
challenge to install,
but costs less initially. I would probably go with as most of Coroplast
that I could afford for upper
levels; and the films
on lower levels easier to reach for replacement in 5-7 years, easier to
remove large areas for
windows, several triangles
at a time. Also as the warm air rises, the Coroplast insulates so will
help with climate control.
13.Scrap or old glass probably is not
a good idea. You would need modern glass with better characteristics for
growing
under. Old glass does
not cut well. But if you were getting large amounts of glass that
would cover whole triangles at a
good price, yes.
14.As a matter of fact there are many
people who do water garden designs, ponds, fountains etc. I have some contacts
but
never had the occasions
to use them yet. Julie' originated the Wildscape concept that was implemented
with the Texas
State Parks for areas
of native plants conducive to an animal friendly environment. She's also
done a lot of design work
and managing garden
center- nurseries and familiar with the aquatics. We have exhibits at Home
and Garden shows and
there are always peolple
who specialize in water design. Under construction-
-http://www.gtwn.net/~wgd/wmi/wildlifemin.htm
15.The dome designs are quiet flexible.
An office-living area can be incorporated, inside the dome or attached.
It could be a
seperate smaller dome
attached. If you want to expand outward, domes can be connected in a number
of ways- all in
line joined or seperated
by a walk way, a main central dome with 1- 5 other domes joined radially
about- for the Icosa
domes with pentagon
features; or 5 domes in a pentagon shape, seperated by a walk way. With
this final concept a large
open area in the center
will provide a great outdoor area surrounded largely by the domes. Also
with a number of smaller
domes, various microenvironments
can be supported for particular animal and plant growth; tropical, rain
forest, desert,
etc. The San Antonio
Botanic gardens does this with several structures. One is super humid,
another desert dry, etc.
Have you seen the Mitchell Park Domes? I have
not myself but hope to some day. They are non the conventional geodesic
type.- http://www.uwm.edu/Dept/Biology/domes/
http://www.countyparks.com/places/mitchell.html
==========
I am interested in your entire line of domes for several uses on our
> Montana ranch which will house our extended family (14 families)
by year
> end. We also are shopping for large greenhouse structures.
Please send
> what ever information you feel would be helpful in our evaluation
of
> your products.
Hello,
Thank you for inquiring about our dome
products. Although our domes make
wonderful greenhouse garden domes, their usefullness
extends far beyond this
basic and obvious function. Especially for architectural
development into
fully useable modernized, safe, secure, permanent
living spaces. We welcome
any such developments by our customers. You will
find our dome frames are
equal or superior to those on the market made
by dome home manufacturers.
However we only supply dome frames of several
types, and logistic and
installation support; any architectural development
and design, interior
finish, engineering qualification etc. is left
for the customer. So there is
full flexibility into how this might be done:
by an experienced
do-it-yourself person familiar with construction
techniques to having it all
done by general contractor and sub contractors.
Please study the Garden Dome web pages,
and order our $10 catalog.
Some special unique features of our domes:
1.) The X1, X2, and X3 types add triangulated
structural support. For
instance the "Garden Dome 3" type could be a
40 ft. dome with the main dome
triangles approx. 7 x 8 x 8 feet. The three methods
of subdividing adds
structural strength and support for nailing triangles
made from 4 x 8 ft.
sheets. for roof deck and interior ceiling panels.
2.) Domes can be "double domes". This is where
for each strut on the
original dome, an extra strut is added interiorly
for extra support
structure, extra space for insulation between
interior and exterior. For
instance two 2 x 4s or a 2 x 6 and a 2 x 4 strut
attached to a longer
connecting hub cylinder; can make a 10-15 inch
space between roof deck and
ceiling panels.
3.) Wide range of materials, sizes, options,
dome types. Eleven basic dome
types; pvc, aluminum or steel connector hubs;
wood, pvc, aluminum or steel
frames with iron oxide anticorrosion finish;
Connector Kits or complete
Frame Kits. All at reasonable cost.
==================
As soon as I can, I will have the ground leveled
and a concrete pad poured. > Do you have information on the lug bolt
pattern that could be used at the > time that the concrete is poured?
For either the Connector Kit or complete Frame Kit, wood or metal, I will
assemble the base level first and send you these with measurements/instructions,
and from this you can find your anchor bolt locations and entry (door)
locations also. Alternately you can just drill in the concrete
the hole for anchor bolt, after the dome is assembled, mark the places,
raise it up and drill away. If you have a 20 ft. round fndn. the dome will
fit on it with room to spare The widest point is a few feet up. You may
set the dome on boards or posts to raise it up, 4 x 4 or 4 x 6 and give
a wall for metal flashing to be applied. If you want to do a 15 sided foundation,
I can send a layout that will match the dome base. > > I have
also noted that you offer "metal domes" and twin wall translucent > polycarbonate
glazing. I would appreciate information regarding that. Metal would
be 1.5 x 1.5 inch square tubes and 3.5 and 4.5 inch round pipe hubs, Reynolds
6063 aluminum. Everything is bolted together with no welding required.
It would be very rigid and strong.An aluminum extrusion for clipping on
the glazing can be used with spring tension clips, or plastic glazing screwed
right into the struts, with plastic or metal strips to cover the seams.
With this type hinged triangle windows with auto actuator works well. Depends
on the domes purpose. Aluminum costs considerably more plus more nuts and
bolts required. Thermoclear (ribbed twinwall)lexan type glazing is
best for insulating, for heating for greenhouse in winter; guaranteed by
GE 10 years and the best option. Comes in 'clear' bronze and opal tint.
It's really tough, hail proof. 6 or 8 mm thickness. Starts at about $1.65
sq/ft. material cost + cutting triangles and installation. [roughly $2,000]
> > I appreciate your offer to help with the doors. Is there
a standard design > available? Yes-http://www.fastlane.net/~ega/SD2b_Lou2_90x.JPG
This is the 12 foot one. The redwood one, 14 ft. But with a 20 ft. dome
the top star point need not be part of the opening. I suppose
that the best way is to build the whole dome and then > remove sections
as required. I would need to know exactly where to put the > door
[s] so that I can orient the dome properly with the access path. You can
see from the top views how the stars in question for door placement are
3 equally spaced at 120 degrees. This area can be framed in for a rectangle
door, but not likely a standard size you could buy off-the-shelf.
> > Finally, if one wanted to cover the dome with OSB sections so
that it could > be stuccoed in order to match our home. Nail/screw on the
panels, cover the seams with galv. strips+ rubber sealer. I can cut the
triangle panels out, ready for installing. Consult the shot-crete spray
on concrete folks how to best do this, instead of hand application. The
equipment can be rented many places. Also you may have noticed with
the Star Dome 2 the height is greater than the radius; a 20 ft. dome it
would be around 13 feet at the apex. >
Entries and windows are easily adapted to the
domes. You can have a > > hub-strut geodesically triangled entry that comes
with the Connector Kits > > and Frame Kits, or retrofit standard doors
and windows from a local > > builders's supply. I can help with design
options and basic drawings for > > adding alternate entries at no extra
cost to you. > > 20 foot domes typically have 15 or 20 ground
level edges, but might > have > > 10 (http://www.fastlane.net/~ega/sd1_b_top.JPG)
> > Several foundation methods are possible, from rock, brick,
cement, > deck, > > or just put down sheets of opaque 25 mil woven poly.
We have > black/silver, > > black /white and translucent (10 or 15 mil)
polys. > > Other options are schedule 80 pvc hubs with 3/8"
wall thicknes vs. 1/4 > > for the std. sch. 40; sch. 40 and 80 aluminum
hubs, for 2 x 2, 2 x 4 or 2 > x > > 6 wood. Also galvanized steel hardware
(std. is zinc plated) is > available.
=====
The polygonal hub cover plates are bolted on with a "long" bolt - one
cover inside and one outside; with plexiglass (typically) of any std. color
or coroplast (corrugated sheet, several colors)1/8" or 1/4" thick. [www.coroplast.com]
These add a little expense, w/ 1/8" coroplast cheapest, good for holding
on fabric at the hubs int. or ext. but it bends (not really too rigid)
if screwed too tight.
AS well I
possibly need to seal (just to keep out light and muffle sound) the
outside possibly with pink insulation foam (noone will be able to see
the
exterior). If I order a dome it will be the lightest material you
have (pvc or aluminum). Are there any glues that you recommend to adhere
stuff to pvc
pipe or whatever your domes are made of? Do you make or sell precut
triangles for such a purpose?
I would use the rigid insulation foam board of which several types
are available; cut in triangles and placed over the dome struts. We can
do this for you. Several construction glues/ rubber sealant types could
be used.
How long does it take (& how many people) approximately to put
the dome
(12 doot diameter) together?
The Octa-Dome, in 4 sections, about 45 min. + the outside cover and
inside fabric, + hub covers. (one person)Probable would work, if you had
a truck or trailer; 4 sections with the outside insulation pre-applied
to most of the triangles.
The Garden Dome 2, in sections this way, would take twice or so longer;
16 vs 26 hubs etc. (compare top views).
Could the dome be made in 1/2s or 1/4s and then put together?
The GD2, 5 Pentagons and then 10 triangles between them. The Octa-Dome,
4 sections of 6 triangles.
I only have 4 days to install and want to build as much beforehand
as
possible. I have to store all my building materials in a room across
the
hall from the gallery and there are only normal sized doors to get
in and
out of.
The sections can go through normal size doors.
My time is extremely short for installation of the show and I need
to know
a guesstimate of time it would take and all of these things add up,
if I
can't do them before hand or easily.
I appreciate your time and look forward to a reply. (I need to build
my
model for my commitee in two weeks!)
Depending on what you need the dome can be aluminum square tubes and
alum. or pvc (white) cyl. hubs; or regular white pine 1 x 2 or 2 x 4s,
painted if you like. Or other finer grade wood that costs more, incl redwood
etc.Also the 2 x 2 white hollow
Depending on what you need the dome can be aluminum square hollow tubes
and alum. or pvc (white) cyl. hubs; or regular white pine 1 x 2 or 2 x
2s, painted if you like. Or other finer grade wood that costs more, incl
redwood etc.Also the 2 x 2 white hollow pvc square tube would work good.
Your 1 x 2or 2 x 2 pine dome w/ pvc hubs will be cheapest, as priced
on the Garden Domes web pages.
For quick connecting dome sections, the strut end has a preinserted
"hanger bolt." This is a threaded stud with wood screw and machine threads
on the opp. end. The machine thread stud sticks out, and goes through holes
in the hub cyl. A 1/4" ratchet or other tool goes in the hub to tighten
the hdw. This would cost a little more; and wing nuts for hand tightening
quickly yet "a little" more (like $10.00).
Hollow strut dome connections all use machine screws which also can
be wing nuts. There is more hdw. involved; they are more "permanent" and
with higher material price and labor will cost 2/2-1/2 x the wood domes.
For not much strength (comparatively speaking- it is still quite strong
and rigid) required, the 1 x 2 wood dome will work. Height at apex will
be 6 feet. Fabric can be clamped/ stapled on in addition to attaching at
hub points. If your fabric can stretch, this will help a lot. Sections
might need to be sewed together for a certain look/fit
I may have not gave you this image: ~http://www.fastlane.net/~ega/stress_test2.JPG
<http://www.fastlane.net/ega/stress_test2.JPG>
That shows over 1,000 lb. placed on the 20' sch. 40 pvc hub GD3. You
dome has less hubs (that can be a weakness at the connection) and more
struts. Plus stronger hubs and the "MMX" hubs [ a play on words from Intel's
multimedia chip] where 9 struts join, and longer bolts throughout.
Yes I'm sorry that it is a logistically mind boggling
thing, with all the options and prices etc. Let me try to help.
You can have (regular "wolmanized) pressure treated
lumber for addt'l 15%
Galvanized hardware would be addt'l $45 (more
permanently rustproof) Zinc plated is standard. Regular white/yellow pine
with oil based sealer is standard included. "Nude" w/o this (use paint
or do-it-yourself) subtract $45 from your cost.
You would probably prefer the 2 x 2 (lower shipping
cost) or 2 x 4 wood dome frame. Redwood or other wood type is an option
but costs more and I do not have prices currently.
You may have 6 mil greenhouse plastic (non-woven)
alone (least expensive option), or with the polygonal hub covers (plexiglass)
and hardware. It is clearer although blurry visibility.
Or, 10 or 15 mil woven "super poly" that is most
durable, alone (by sq. footage) or in the Super Poly Kit with window channel,
cinchstrap, hub covers.
For best insulation, use 2 layers one inside
and one outside of the wood strut. For instance the woven poly on outside
and clearer 6 mil film on inside.
You would need a ratchet and 1/2" socket, and
hot glue gun and good staple gun to appply the films. You might want a
better lockable latch for the door.
For best insulation, use 2 layers one inside and
one outside of the wood strut. For instance the woven poly on outside and
clearer 6 mil film on inside.
=====
You would need a ratchet and 1/2" socket, and
hot glue gun and good staple gun to appply the films. You might want a
better lockable latch for the door. A method to anchor the dome down using
bottom hubs and struts to ground/foundation. Also removeable foam board
insulation for the several north facing triangles (not if you use 2 layers
of film), a heater and passive solar collectors to add heat, and grow lights
if you need them. Maybe small fan for circulation. A few hours work putting
up the dome (depending on ability) and 8-15 hrs for covering.
=====
What you get:
Dome Frame- lumber, pvc cylinder connectors,
hardware, door hub w/ struts and hdw. with handle, latch and hinges, step
by step instructions with illustrations, paper dome model, guarantee satisfaction,
free email support.
Cover- Woven (10 or 15 mil) or non woven (6 mil)
plastic film by sq. ft.
Or, in kit form precut in large manageable sections,
with everything (incl. polyfasterner w/ instal-remove tools and cinchstrap
lath) except hot glue and staples.
Gene
What you get:
Dome Frame- lumber, pvc cylinder connectors,
hardware, door hub w/ struts and hdw. with handle, latch and hinges, step
by step instructions with illustrations, paper dome model, guarantee satisfaction,
free email support.
Cover- Woven (10 or 15 mil) or non woven (6 mil)
plastic film by sq. ft.
Or, in kit form precut in large manageable sections,
with everything (incl. polyfasterner w/ instal-remove tools and cinchstrap
lath) except hot glue and staples.
New images at
~http://www.fastlane.net/~ega/gd2_pics.htm <http://www.fastlane.net/ega/gd2_pics.htm>
(bottom)
You can see where Julie is standing, chest level
left & right hubs have a 90 degree vertical strut coming down, making
a rectangle + top triangle for a door. The rectangle is triangled with
an "X" - 4 struts and central hub. This is an optional (better in my opinion)
no extra cost door if requested. Otherwise you get a 2 or 3 triangle door.
[or you may engineer your own and subtract $65 from cost]
Shipping: 1 x 2 dome about $95 in 2 or 3 boxes
UPS
2 x 2 dome about $175 in 2-4 boxes UPS or by
motor freight-
2 x 4- by motor freight, need your zip code for
this cost estimate.
==============
Having said all this, We have a special promotion
on our new and exclusive OCTA-GAZEBO-DOME for you to consider.
15% discount til Dec. 31, 1998
2 x 4 Octa Domes with an extra long Base Option,
10 and 15 ft. diameter. Down payment will secure your order.
Price includes everything for a completely enclosed
dome that can be opened up as shown, or certain struts removed for a smaller
door entry. Includes hub covers. Plastic films extra. Door hubs and struts
extra. Connector Kits available. Schedule 80 pvc or aluminum hubs and other
options available. Colored stain of your choice included. Price $525 plus
shipping. Ready for shipment in 1-2 weeks.
10 ft. dia. 2 x 4 - $525
Pressure treated wood add $50
nude w/ no wood preservative - subtract $75
15 ft. dia. 2 x 4 - $665
Pressure treated wood add $65
nude w/ no wood preservative - subtract $90
15 ft. dia. 2 x 4 - $735
Pressure treated wood add $95
nude w/ no wood preservative - subtract $110
***Woven Super Poly Kits***
--10 mil--
For 10 ft dome = $198
For 15 ft dome = $241
Includes cinchstrap lath and polyfastener with
install/remove tools
=l=l=l=l=l=l=
Hub+strut hinged door entry -
10 ft dome = $65
15 ft dome (both 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 domes) = $85
=l=l=l=l=l=l=
Hub+strut hinged door entry -
10 ft dome = $65
15 ft dome (both 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 domes) = $85
Images: ~http://www.fastlane.net/~ega/octa_gz_dome1.JPG
<http://www.fastlane.net/ega/octa_gz_dome1.JPG>
~http://www.fastlane.net/~ega/octa_gz_dome2.JPG
<http://www.fastlane.net/ega/octa_gz_dome2.JPG
We can definitely
provide a pool covering. Some of the elliptical domes will work for your
16 x 30 pool shape. I don't have these on the web pages; but I have some
cad drawings. Also a round 30+ ft. diameter dome will covre your pool with
extra area around, if you have the space or just don't like the elliptical
design. But the elliptical design will be shorter and easier to heat.
You have a lot of options with covers and
price range. Something really nice would be the aluminum dome with polycarbonate
(greenhouse) glazing or the less expensive Coroplast [www.coroplast.com]
translucent type. Less expensive are the wood, galvanized steel conduit
or white pvc (fence) domes. Though not as permanent as the others, the
wood domes of treated pine or cedar will last several years even in a moist
atmosphere. You could essentialy make the greenhouse to cover your pool
and use the woven poly film, two layers of film; combinations and upgrade
in the future if necessary.
Hello
We have the least expensive dome building
products that I know of. You can develop dome frames as little or
as
much as you like depending on you plans and budget.
Even aluminum hub domes are reasonably priced.
You have several options with our
domes, which can seem confusing but it gives you a wider variety to choose
from.
1. Schedule 40 white high pressure type pvc hubs
2. Sch. 80 gray thicker, stronger pvc hubs
3. pvc hubs for various standard wood sizes,
1 x 2 to 2 x 6 or even 2 x 8
4. Aluminum or steel hubs
5. Zinc plated or galvanized steel (more expensive)
attaching hardware.
6. Extended hubs for "double domes" - use two
struts such as a 2 x 6 and 2 x 4 where normally only one strut
would be used. This gives a roof support structure
and insulation space with interior ceiling panel support
structure.
7. Hollow tube domes- pvc square/rectangle tube
for greenhouses, or aluminum extrusion and structural steel for
larger or heavy duty applications.
8. Galv. steel round pipe (conduit) domes with
or without the cylinder hubs. Low cost alternative for a very
strong dome.
9. Other dome types and materials.
= = = = =
You can read about my dome invention at http://www.inventorweb.com/
under construction.
=======
Some comparisons:
GD3 - 46 hubs, 120 struts, 240 attach
points (2 per strut)
GD3 w/ 2 x 6, same hub and strut
qty. but 480 attach points
---
GD3-X1 - adds 75 struts
GD3-X2 - adds 75 hubs and 225 struts
GD3-X3 - adds 225 struts to the GD3-X2
---
GD4 - 94 hubs, 250 struts, 500 atach
points; 1,000 for 2 x 6 wood
(complete frame, not counting doors, windows
etc.)
---
The GD4 has 6 lengths of struts and 6 sizes of
triangles, The GD3 has 3. So the GD4 type is more complicated,
will be more rounded and have more types of triangles
to cover, but it is a nice exact 1/2 sphere. For 40 ft the
struts will be avg. 5.8 ft. ranging from approx.
5' to 6.5'
We will probably make one of these next
month for a demonstration; a 2 x 4 model with double dome option. Would
be about a 40 ft. You could purchase this one
or come to Austin to inspect.
If I remember right, a 28' dia. can
be made from 125 8 ft. boards - 2 struts per board. Say $9.50 per sch.
80
pvc hub (2 x 4) = $912 or $17 per alum
hub for 2 x 4 = $1632.
Add another $2000 for lumber and roof deck +
materials for your basic dome covered.
---
Ernie
